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Australia

Prologue Visas Getting there Student Job
Living costs Sydney Travelling around Australia Deserts Epilogue
Simpson Desert

Walking in Simpson Desert

  

red sand (English correction by Liam)

My solo adventure started in August 2006. Australia has 10 deserts, and for me the most impresive one is Simpson (Arunta). This is the world's largest area of parallel dunes, there are more than 1100 of them spreading from south-west to north-east over a distance of 400 kilometers. Some dunes carry on for several hundred kilometers, often reaching a height of more than 30 meters. In contrast to the Sahara or the Namib dunes, these do not change its shape or position thanks to roots of existing vegetations. Sand lying closer to tropic had more red color. And this color on the background of blue sky is amazing.

As I have already obtained the permission of national parks and owners of private properties - and bought a fly ticket to Birdsville - the last village to the east of Arunta. Here life looks more relaxed and in slow motion. I could also confirm that the clients are arriving for a beer into the local pub by their small planes. After landing on the airstrip in front of the bar, they pull them by cord to the parking and go for a drink. For me, however, was already time to go - I have filled containers with 18 liters of water and tried to lift my heavy backpack (38 kg). Fasten me to the ground. After a while I started walk on unpaved track. It was already evening and wascooking the dinner a time for the first night alone. Full moon, I didn't need a torch to set a camp. I cooked a dinner on open fire, spread isothermal blanket NRC and on top of that a sleeping bag. All nights under the stars were quiet, except once, when close sounds woke me up - that was herd of camels smelling some food from my pot. People often ask what about the snakes, spiders? They exist, even I was lucky to see them several times, but only for a moment, because they are afraid us. Snakes are not usually aggressive, you just should look where you put your feet, and if you do not step on snake, you are safe, they won't come to you. Apparently only few dangers may be here - herd of wild hungry dogs or frustrated male camel pushed away from the herd.

hide from the sun The day began for me an hour before sunrise, quick packing the equipment and start walk before the heat will make it more difficult. I walk on bearings, chose a characteristic bush on the next dune and moving in its direction. I have eaten breakfast on the way, and around 11am, when heat is too strong for the further march (loss of water due to sweating would be too high) I stopped for the rest. Like the wildlife - in the middle of the day, even the birds do not fly, nothing is moving. With one exception - flies! These are unbearable, going to the eyes, ears and nose. Around 3pm when the shadow is already short enough, it is time to move on. Even after sunset I continued the march with torch. Was a bit difficult to navigate, but at a time I corrected my position with GPS. This plan allowed me to reduce a daily water consumption up to 3.5 liters. It was the winter and maximum temperature was 37°C, and at the night fell down to 2°C. Such a high daily amplitude is due to very low air humidity, and lack of clouds, which normally block a hot air.

On map I had marked several wells, tanks and windmills which supposed pumping the water - they were installed by the owners of a cattle ranch on the desert edge. In a few of them I found the water, which helped me walked further on. In one of them water stayed deep in the ground - the solution was to put sock on a string and drop it inside the metal pipe, take out and squeeze the sock - doesn't sound very esthetic, but important that such a system works. Getting deeper into the desert I had problem with the water and slowly I had to coming back to certain sources of water. Suddenly miracle happened - between the dunes I found paddle of water?!dead thirsty cows That was freezing maddy freshwater without animals urines, so it was suitable for drinking. Although the ceramic filter stuck immediately, so I needed to dig hole to refill the water. Such a lucky situation let me move further to the west, straight ahead into the unknown. A total of 10 days I was completely alone and separated from the traces of a modern civilization. There, I felt an unbelievable positive energy. It was a time when I didn't use the luxuryof everyday life, I even didn't talk. The silence broke the camel encounter, which followed me, so I started shout towards an intruder. I liked the Simpson Desert very much, but I worried for future that this 247-kilometer walk was totaly dependent from the meet of water sources. I couldn't walk far without wells. Besides I hate return to the starting point.

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