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Australia

Prologue Visas Getting there Student Job
Living costs Sydney Travelling around Australia Deserts Epilogue
Western Australia

Travelling around Western Australia

It's bigger then Spain, Portugal, France, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, UK, Benelux, Italy and Greece all combined. But the population is just over 2 million, what makes it one of the smallest populated area in the world - less then 1 person per square kilometre. The land is hot, dry, not too much hospitable. But don't take me wrong, I love it, I enjoy just to be in outback. There is so excellent feeling to be in the middle of nowhere. Unfortunately, not too many tourists agree with me. They prefer more vibrant attractions.

If you driving to Western Australia from Sydney/Adelaide on Eyre Hwy, you will find yourself on Nullarbor Plains, on the straight road stretch for 143km without any curve. It's the longest perfectly straight road in the world.

The first bigger town on your way worth to notice will be Kalgoorlie-Boulder. People were coming here in gold fever times. There is not much to see, but the atmosphere of quiet gold mine towns are pretty unique. One of original offer is a borthel tours. Some smaller gold areas around look like ghost towns. Not too far is wave rock, an extraordinary sculpted rock formation (near town of Hyden)

On the south-west coast you have beautiful area with whale and dolphins watching, surfing possibilities, and mixture of caves, cliffs, deserts and forests. You can spend relaxing day in wineries in Margaret River or around Albany, see Cape Leeuwin where Southern and Indian Oceans meet, climb over 60 meter high trees near Pemberton (using makeshift ladder), or join the giant tree top walk (up to 40m above the ground) in Walpole-Nornalup NP.

Canning Stock RoutePerth is one of two Australian cities where I would like to live (the first one is Sydney). A bit of laid back, easy going, not over crowded, clean, space. Hopefully not too boring over longer period. It's called the sunniest state capital in Australia too. If you are there just for couple of days, just visit City Centre, Botanic Garden at King Park, and enjoy the Indian Ocean beaches in Fremantle.

However, it’s expensive in Perth to get from city centre to an international airport - taxi costs 38 AUD, shuttle minibus around 20 AUD (domestic Airport has city bus connection). I worked out not too perfect, but the cheap way – from the Esplanade Busport take the bus No. 288 (3.50 AUD) and get off at the bus stop on Kewdale Rd, just before the intersection with Tonkin Highway (road No. 4). From here you have one hour walk to the north (5 km).

There are two ways how to get from Perth to Darwin in Northern Territory. The most popular is coast road. For the reasons - easy access, bitumen road, tourist infrastructure, beaches along the road. But there is another way - through the heart of the desert. Canning Stock Route is the longest unsupported 4WD track in the world. You need to be prepared for this kind of trip. Just a good 4WD car is not enough. If you need more info about it please have a look here.

Pinnacles260km north from Perth you can see Pinnacles desert in Nambung NP. The park is punctured with limestone pillars (up to 5 meters high). They usually best to visit on sunrise or sunset, and as well in full moon light. Further north there is another amazing NP, called Kalbarri. This is a reddish sandstone magnificent gorge. The only point is that to reach Murchison Gorge is an extra 130 km return detour from the main road No 1. Many good lookouts, short and overnight walks are also the option.

After it the marine wonder starts. Shark Bay is the first paradise and Monkey Mia is the most famous of it. People coming here to get close personal experience with dolphins. You are standing with dozen of other tourist in knee-deep crystal water. You can't catch dolphin, not even touch. Sometime you might be allowed to feed them, but only with that what ranger gives you. The best chance to see dolphins is around 8 am. At evening all tourist groups leave the place empty, so stay if you can. If you don't have enough, Monkey Miathe sailing cruise (from 45 AUD) might be an extra attraction. Except dolphins you have a chance to spot dugong and sea turtle.

Some more amazing underwater creatures awaiting for you in 260km long Coral Reef Ningaloo, roughly from Coral Bay to Exmouth. This reef is in some places just 100 m offshore, so you don't need a boat to discover it. Ningaloo reef is famous especially for encountering whale sharks. Snorkelling with that giant animal is a unique experience. I strongly recommend do it. Unfortunately those biggest fish in the world are coming here only between March and June. Another problem is high price - around 400 AUD for the tour! I have done it 10 times cheaper in Mozambique. Yeah, but you are not in Mozambique now. Otherwise, you still have a great reef and other marine life to see, including giant manta rays, dugongs or sea turtles. Humpback whales might also be spotted around June-July and October-November. At least encounter mantas cost much less, around 150 AUD. If you are afraid of water, glass bottom boat might be a solution (from 49 AUD).

Karijini NPNow is the time to say good bye to the coast and head towards outback. The first another amazing national park on the way will be Karijini (150 km north from Newman). Those varied colours rock formation form very unusual landforms. A lot of gorges, waterfalls and waterholes are a perfect place for bushwalking mixed with relaxing swimming.

Just after passing Broome you reach Kimberley region. It's outback again, emptiness, wilderness, with red rock formations, gorges etc. But every single region in outback has a different feeling, like personal character. Kimberley has as well new inhabitants in its territory – crocodiles and baobab trees.

Wolfe Creek krater Gibb River Road is another example of unique experience. It's impassable in the wet season (Dec to Apr), but at other time this dirt road is passable even for 2WD (although it's not recommended and you can't reach all nearby attractions). Anyway, this is another Australian red wilderness world with gorgeous gorges and few vehicles.

Wolfe Creek is the second largest in the world meteorite crater can be seen near Halls Creek. It's just 130 km south by unsealed road, rather for 4 WD. The crater is 835 meters wide and over 50 meters deep. You can hike around the rim or descent to the bottom. Don't believe in movie Wolfe Creek - it was based on true story, but the only connection with the real events was the murderer - who was killing the backpackers in NSW totally in different way.

Bungle Bungle NPOne of “must see” destination is Bungle Bungle (Purnululu NP). This park is famous for its original sandstone formations – rounded rock towers with orange and black stripes. To get here you must have 4WD, and you can't do it during the wet season. Entry fee is 11 AUD, you can also use some basic camping facilities. To get between the rocks you must leave your car and have a walk from the parking. There are plenty of hikes, starting from one hour one way up to several days. The north part of the park is more restricted and can be seen only by scenic flights (over 200 AUD).

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